Marios Schwab
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Sarah Mower
Projecting himself into a new idiom for Halston in New York got Marios Schwab thinking more about his own half-Austrian identity for the collection he shows in his adopted London. "I was the only boy in the sewing school in the Annahof Schule in Salzburg! I had this kind of nostalgia for the ladies who taught me, and who dressed in traditional dirndls on a Sunday. It made me think about working on décolletés," he said backstage. "Oh, and the Steiff teddy bears I had as a kid."It was hardly The Sound of Music, but with its buttoned-up collarless white blouses under swooping necklines, you could literally see where Schwab was coming from. Most of the looks had long sleeves, with only the legs kept exposed, and all detail was concentrated above a raised waist: bolero jackets, bodices crisscrossed with lacing, and steel clips transposed from the desginer's favorite pair of climbing boots.
If it didn't quite have the impact of Schwab's first contributions to shaping the body-con movement four years ago, it showed he's keeping a grip on designing the kind of pieces retailers ask him for. And the teddy-fur coat? Several of those have been popping up in avant-garde collections this Fall, so he's dead-on with that.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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