Projecting himself into a new idiom for Halston in New York got Marios Schwab thinking more about his own half-Austrian identity for the collection he shows in his adopted London. "I was the only boy in the sewing school in the Annahof Schule in Salzburg! I had this kind of nostalgia for the ladies who taught me, and who dressed in traditional dirndls on a Sunday. It made me think about working on décolletés," he said backstage. "Oh, and the Steiff teddy bears I had as a kid."

It was hardly The Sound of Music, but with its buttoned-up collarless white blouses under swooping necklines, you could literally see where Schwab was coming from. Most of the looks had long sleeves, with only the legs kept exposed, and all detail was concentrated above a raised waist: bolero jackets, bodices crisscrossed with lacing, and steel clips transposed from the desginer's favorite pair of climbing boots.

If it didn't quite have the impact of Schwab's first contributions to shaping the body-con movement four years ago, it showed he's keeping a grip on designing the kind of pieces retailers ask him for. And the teddy-fur coat? Several of those have been popping up in avant-garde collections this Fall, so he's dead-on with that.