With his expertly cut suits and cooler-than-thou jeans, Nicolas Andreas Taralis showed signs of filling a void left by Helmut Lang in the middle aughts. But then in 2007, Taralis himself appeared to drop out of the scene, concentrating his energies on a short-lived position at Cerruti. He never entirely stopped designing or producing under his own steam, though, and now, with tailoring resurgent on other runways, he's chosen a smart time to re-emerge on a broader stage. "I'm picking up the pieces where I left off," he said backstage. "It's a little more artisanal and handmade, a little less tough."

More artisanal, yes. Taralis showed a couple of biker jackets in quilted washed and distressed leather. Less tough? Not from where we were sitting. That's hardly a complaint, though: His jackets still look great, cut lean and a bit meaner than in the past thanks to a bold, slightly peaked, and of-the-moment shoulder. The fit looks right on his slim trousers, too. As for the denim, it can be hard to justify a spot for jeans on a runway, but the designer gave them a reason for being there by adding edgy industrial zippers that snaked up the legs. Now might still be a difficult time to get a young business up and running, but from the looks of the editors and retailers lining up to greet Taralis after the show, many people were happy to be rediscovering him.