Nathan Jenden
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 23, 2010
By Tim Blanks
For the first collection of his Life After DVF (she was front-row center, in the show of support that typified their relationship), Nathan Jenden imagined "church ladies in the jungle." From the first zebra print to the last tulle ruffle, he constructed a vision of zingy, hyper-colored optimism. The key word is "constructed"—there was an over-the-top forties flavor to the tailoring of the jackets and pencil skirts with their flaring kick pleats (the saucer hats helped, too). It followed the silhouette of his equally upbeat Spring collection so closely, you could assume Jenden has settled on a design signature. It clearly doesn't involve "simple": A gray jersey dress was wrapped in a nude ruffle; a plain black jacket sported a leopard lapel. But it does involve lots of eye-popping color. Was that pink party skirt made of shredded feathers or strips of something synthetic? A one-shouldered dress composed of hot pink tiers looked like a great big cake. Another dress could have been made of crumpled metallic candy wrappers. But the sweetness wasn't sickly—for that, credit Jenden's contagious excitement about his future. "This is me," he bubbled backstage in his McQueen tee and little black waistcoat.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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