Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
February 22, 2010 London
For the first collection of his Life After DVF (she was front-row center, in the show of support that typified their relationship), Nathan Jenden imagined "church ladies in the jungle." From the first zebra print to the last tulle ruffle, he constructed a vision of zingy, hyper-colored optimism. The key word is "constructed"—there was an over-the-top forties flavor to the tailoring of the jackets and pencil skirts with their flaring kick pleats (the saucer hats helped, too). It followed the silhouette of his equally upbeat Spring collection so closely, you could assume Jenden has settled on a design signature. It clearly doesn't involve "simple": A gray jersey dress was wrapped in a nude ruffle; a plain black jacket sported a leopard lapel. But it does involve lots of eye-popping color. Was that pink party skirt made of shredded feathers or strips of something synthetic? A one-shouldered dress composed of hot pink tiers looked like a great big cake. Another dress could have been made of crumpled metallic candy wrappers. But the sweetness wasn't sickly—for that, credit Jenden's contagious excitement about his future. "This is me," he bubbled backstage in his McQueen tee and little black waistcoat.