No. 21
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 25, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
After losing the rights to his name and taking the Spring season off, Alessandro Dell'Acqua was back on the runway today with a new label and a somewhat new approach. He's named the collection No. 21 after his lucky number (his birthday is December 21), and as he said backstage, "It's about real women." Or to put it another way? "There's more daywear." Dell'Acqua's focus on masculine staples like crisp blue cotton poplin shirts, boxy knits, and camel trousers puts him in step with the general direction fashion is heading in—a smart move in these more practical times.But the designer didn't entirely forsake his louche side. The shift dress that opened the show, for instance, was practically staid coming; going, however, it was a different story, with a plunging rear view and ruched zipper. The lingerie details he loves turned up in the form of cool, understated lace tees and tanks, and above-the-knee skirts. And for evening, he was embellishing peekaboo chiffon in a gorgeous shade of emerald green with feather trim in the back.
It's going to take some time for Dell'Acqua to build this new image as a go-to guy for sportswear, but a classic leopard-print ponyhair coat made modern via its neoprene bonded leather trim and a pair of sexy fitted leather motorcycle jackets look like good starting points.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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