March 03, 2010 Paris
That part of the collection, as well as the four long finale dresses, seemed to be positioning Nina Ricci as the Parisian answer to, say, Alberta Ferretti or Collette Dinnigan. That's a respectable thing to be aiming for commercially, but looked at from the creative angle, Copping still has to assert himself as a designer with his own voice. A lot that was on the runway looked too much like holdovers from his days at Vuitton, where Marc Jacobs handed him sole authorship of cruise and pre-collections. Still, new house, new start; and by next season, maybe the distance will have given Copping the chance to whip up a new raison d'être for the Ricci label.