Osman
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Hadley Freeman
According to the show's press notes, this Osman collection was inspired by "strong, stylish female figures with a sense of adventure." But while the young designer Osman Yousefzada cited Peggy Guggenheim in particular, the long shapeless dresses, layered nubby-mohair check pieces, and a look that involved a blazer over a cropped top suggested some rather different female figures—namely, 1990's actresses, with Andie MacDowell in Green Card and Winona Ryder in Reality Bites coming specifically to mind. And while any excuse to cite the MacDowell/Depardieu film is welcome, that movie was notable for matching the badness of MacDowell's acting with the dodginess of her wardrobe. Nubby mohair? And in check?Yousefzada has a tendency to see inspirations in his work that remain opaque to most others: Last time, it was "Mrs. Simpson" who got a name check, even though the clothes looked a lot sportier and skimpier than anything ever worn by Wallis herself. Now, this isn't necessarily a problem—when has a fashion press release ever really reflected what's on the runway? But it only works as long as the clothes are good, and that is a bit more problematic here. Quite why, though, is a puzzle, as the boy can cut a good dress. This was proven by the opener, in which four models marched out together (starting the show off on a very nineties note, with its reference to the famous Cindy/Naomi/Linda/Christy moment on Versace's runway). The quartet wore beautiful draped black dresses from Yousefzada's new capsule jersey collection. This is just what London needs: a young designer who can make timeless, flattering clothes, who isn't trying to reinvent a wheel that needs no reinvention. But just when you're thinking Yousefzada could be the very useful product of a union between Diane von Furstenberg and Donna Karan, he brings out some oversize palazzo pants and an unfortunate cocoon of a fur coat. Perhaps his jersey collection will remind the designer that sticking to what he does best is more fun for both him and onlookers.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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