February 12, 2010 New York
OK, so it's not exactly the sexiest subject matter for an interview… but when young talents make a real effort to reconcile art and commerce, positive things can happen.
Today's show, which the designers said was a millennial spin on Edwardian military motifs, was undeniably retail-friendly. There were beautiful leather jackets inset with ribbed-knit panels; cropped shearlings; soldier coats; and three kinds of pants (knit-and-leather leggings to match the jackets, slouchy harem jodhpurs, and refreshing wide-leg trousers). As usual, Gill and Adams offered plenty of directional ideas, but this time they were more fully integrated into the whole. Take, for example, the original knitted mesh they developed as a modern, graphic take on lace: It was used throughout, pieced into dresses and skirts, and cut into leggings that will surely become must-haves among the Ohne Titel obsessives who've adored the brand since day one.
Our sole quibble was with the slightly shopworn theme of moody military chic. Customers may not have tired of it yet, but fashion editors surely have. Still, this luxurious and polished effort proved that Ohne Titel's savvy new strategy is working; maybe next season it will crystallize in even purer form.