Ohne Titel
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
A few days ago, Flora Gill gleefully pronounced Ohne Titel's Fall collection its most wearable ever. With equal enthusiasm, she discussed her attempts, with co-designer Alexa Adams, to keep prices down and clientele growing.OK, so it's not exactly the sexiest subject matter for an interview… but when young talents make a real effort to reconcile art and commerce, positive things can happen.
Today's show, which the designers said was a millennial spin on Edwardian military motifs, was undeniably retail-friendly. There were beautiful leather jackets inset with ribbed-knit panels; cropped shearlings; soldier coats; and three kinds of pants (knit-and-leather leggings to match the jackets, slouchy harem jodhpurs, and refreshing wide-leg trousers). As usual, Gill and Adams offered plenty of directional ideas, but this time they were more fully integrated into the whole. Take, for example, the original knitted mesh they developed as a modern, graphic take on lace: It was used throughout, pieced into dresses and skirts, and cut into leggings that will surely become must-haves among the Ohne Titel obsessives who've adored the brand since day one.
Our sole quibble was with the slightly shopworn theme of moody military chic. Customers may not have tired of it yet, but fashion editors surely have. Still, this luxurious and polished effort proved that Ohne Titel's savvy new strategy is working; maybe next season it will crystallize in even purer form.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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