Paris 68
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Marcella Lindeberg has moved 25 times in the past 13 years. If she's not a free spirit, I can't imagine who is. And freedom is what the name Paris 68 means to her. The radical spirit of all those French students and workers who manned the barricades in 1968 to express their disgust for the war in Vietnam has devolved into Lindeberg's collection of clothes for women who are, as she put it, "on the move all the time as mothers and wives." Women, she insisted, who were just like her, shopping for groceries and cooking for their families. That was a little hard to believe given that, at the time Lindeberg said this, she was wearing a sleeveless second-skin dress in black silk georgette, its hem a riot of vibrating tassels, its single concession to mumsiness an elasticized waist. But Lindeberg has always been a rock 'n' roll mom.Yesterday she was creatively consulting on William Rast with her husband, Johan; today she was launching her own long-time-coming collection (Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel turned up in a show of support). And tomorrow? Are Depeche Mode in town? She'll be there. Her clothes were a reflection of Gahan/Gore's very particular rock-tastic spirit—dark, gothic, strict, but Lurex-sparkly. If the huge shoulders were a little too Balmain-esque, the tensely tailored jackets with their flaring peplums were the kind of items that scream for a rock-chick strut. The adult-diaper construction that dictated the silhouette of the pants was unfortunate. That same rock chick would probably prefer the pelmet minis with matching tights, maybe even when paired with a swirling cape. Paging Batgirl! But even the most eccentric aspects of the collection could be justified by the fact that Marcella Lindeberg is the woman these clothes were designed for. And that is true fashion integrity.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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