Paul Smith
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Sigmund Freud insisted women were a perennial mystery. That was before he went to a Paul Smith show. Who was this woman, progressing from a sharply tailored hunting jacket (albeit in a lurid yellow) through trad tweed, gray flannel, and florals to a pair of plus fours in aqua-colored plastic? I guess she was kind of a country girl, but someone had clearly laced her punch, because she became progressively more unhinged as the show went on. Admittedly, she was wearing green support hose printed with riding boots from the onset (now there's an economical answer to the cost of shoe leather), but for a while, she almost caught the mood of Madonna in her strict lady-of-the-manor moment. The gray pleated skirt, the gray hacking jacket, the black tailcoat with the plus fours—so muted. But maybe she'd been curled up with Julien Macdonald reading Jilly Cooper's Riders, because the good country girl came over with a big case of bad. She slipped into a lurid orange cocktail dress and fishnet tights, and sheer gauzy knits that slouched off one shoulder. Then her fishnets had big holes in them, and she was wearing punky red and black striped knits and a full-skirted fifties party dress covered with black netting. And thus we came to those plastic plus fours, which is where we left Sigmund scratching his head. See all from Paul Smith › Timeline
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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