Philosophy
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 14, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
This morning's Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti show—an intimate seated salon affair—couldn't have been more different from the label's past few presentations. Those always seemed more like a cocktail party that incidentally had models stomping up and down a runway. "For five seasons we have been doing the same situation," said Alberta Ferretti after the show. "For this, it is important to see the dress." She was right; these clothes were worth studying without the distraction of a glass of Champagne or an air-kiss.The designer revisited the boy-girl thing that she loves to explore, but there was a newly elevated level of polish to the luxuriously tailored officer's coats in wools and thick buttery leathers and their counterpoint of romantic lace dresses. To that mix, Ferretti injected a naughty-edged propriety with glossy black Victorian lace-up knee boots and beautiful high-starched collars with laser-cut edges and lace insets. There was more of that duality on chic coats that were plain and proper in front and turned to reveal a sexy and chic flare of pleats.
Awards season is coming up, and evening is an important element of this red-carpet staple. One standout: a pale gray bias-cut gown made of various layers of lace and sequins topped with a slim ruffled knit and white collar. It may not be for every girl, but we'd give it Best Dressed on the right young starlet.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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