February 10, 2010
The tension between nature and technology served as Tia Cibani's starting point this season, and it mostly worked for her. "I like the idea of taking something traditional and giving it a modern spin," she said backstage. Highlights included a blouse cut in neoprene, a belted tweed coat with rubberized detailing, and a wool vest fused together at the seams; less successful was a loose, oddly fitting knit-and-leather dress. In the past, Cibani had sometimes gone a bit National Geographic with her literal translations of tribal and ethnic themes—but this time an earthy palette in combination with clean lines gave the collection a nomad appeal that, rather than being too specific, was pleasingly pan-global. For those of us stuck in the urban jungle of New York this week, the nude wellies worn by Iris Strubegger at the opening of the show would be ideal for storming through the slushy streets.