Peter Pilotto
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 23, 2010
By Sarah Mower
The progress of Peter Pilotto is becoming a London phenomenon. Over the past few seasons, he and his partner, Christopher De Vos, have become known for digitally printing, cutting, and draping a steady series of subtly patterned dresses engineered so flatteringly to so many women's physiques that retailers just can't keep them in stock. Now, though, these designers are pushing themselves further. "We don't want to get categorized as cocktail-y print designers," Pilotto said. "So we're trying tailoring and more daywear."They picked a brownish-orangey palette drawn from seventies interiors and then worked their way into all sorts of new categories and materials: coats, cut close to the body in printed Harris tweed; leather patchwork integrated into cardigans and skirts; tailored trousers; shirt-tunic-jacket hybrids; and here and there, outcrops of racoon. Amazingly—for a nascent business that is still housed in the shared studios of the Centre for Fashion Enterprise in the East End—it all held together with professional-looking aplomb. Meanwhile, they didn't neglect the signature Pilotto look, turning up the sophistication level by adding a flash of silver leather to a bodice and sliding in jersey panels to add shape. There were some great dresses, and prints, too—this time an amalgamation of photographic images of mercury splashes and Liberty florals and paisleys blended and faded out in an inimitable way on Pilotto's computer. Very well done.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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