After a good fashion show, you often don't need to ask the person next to you what he or she thought. You just sense it. That was the case today at Preen, where the palpable feeling among the crowd of It girls, bloggers, and important editors was that talented design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi had taken their work to a new level. Before the show, the pair explained that their starting point was the Peter Saville floral album-cover design of New Order's Power, Corruption & Lies. "That was the feminine, almost pretty side," Thornton said, "and then we wanted to add masculine tailoring." The latter came via Savile Row stalwart Gieves & Hawkes in its first collaboration with a womenswear label.

The opening look was a floral bustier dress worn with a cropped turtleneck knit that exposed a band of skin in front and a bra strap in back. Tricky? Maybe, but that only made it doubly impressive that it was executed so well. This vein of sexy subversion was carefully laid into gorgeously traditional suiting cut with a distinctly mannish proportion. But let's not call these "boyfriend" pieces; "husband" seems more appropriate. The designers softened the harder edges with airily sophisticated silk and cashmere dresses, along with cocoon coats so cocoon-y you could spend an entire winter in them, especially if you are lucky enough to have one in fur cleverly cut to look like croc. Perhaps even more covetable was the last look worn by Anja Rubik—part of a grouping built around a crisp, white button-down. It was polished and grown-up, but also preserved this label's cool factor. Preen's foothold in New York fashion just dug in a little deeper.