Pringle of Scotland
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Clare Waight Keller performed a little fashion magic with the new Pringle collection. She wove cashmere with a soluble yarn that dissolved when the material was washed, leaving a mesh of impossibly perfect little cashmere squares, and she made that almost as much a feature of the collection as the huge, slouchy pants with deep, standout pockets. Waight Keller based the trousers on fishermen's waders and paired them with skinny little tops in the mesh to create a seventies-ish silhouette.But I was flashing much further back. That mesh was like something from the Middle Ages, with the tone-on-tone argyle as a ducal insignia. Waight Keller layered tabardlike shapes over kilts, evoking a medieval warrior woman. The green velvets she used, meanwhile, reminded me of colors worn by wandering minstrels. That was a wildly fanciful reaction on my part, but it did underscore the strong Celtic strain in the collection, which is fundamental to the Pringle DNA.
If those waders weren't entirely successful (that's a lot of pant for a body to bear), fishermen's knits contributed to a couple of the collection's strongest pieces: the white cabled sweater elongated into a dress, and the black knit with the swingy pleats and the mass of bobble around the shoulders. The designer's skill with knitwear was also obvious in the gray dress that side-tied over a gunmetal leather skirt.
Though Pringle is a work in progress, what stands out most clearly at this point is Waight Keller's confidence in integrating her own particular vision with the company's 195 years of history (and, beyond that, the essence of Scotland itself). She's taking risks en route. Hopefully, she'll soon start to reap the rewards.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
