February 16, 2010 New York
The designers started off with a toggle jacket cropped below the breasts in a manner reminiscent of the silhouettes in their very first runway show. It was paired with high-waisted skinny jeans in a graffiti print made in collaboration with the denim label J Brand. (Just try keeping those on shelves.) The model carried their new P.S. 11 bag, a more structured take on the P.S. 1, and forged ahead on wooden-platform, stacked-heel shoes.
The scribble motif wasn't the collection's only eye-grabbing pattern. To create the woven jacquards they used for their baby-doll minidresses (worn, like almost everything in the show, with thigh-high hose), Hernandez and McCollough took photocopies of plaids, jiggling the fabrics on the copier's plate glass to create their blurred, distorted effects. Other prep-school standbys got seriously tweaked as well. Varsity jackets came with purple or green fur collars, while a snappy cheerleader skirt was teamed with a luxe black fox sweatshirt.
Relatively subdued and spare by comparison were a pair of accordion-pleated flannel minidresses in navy and pine green that were layered over black mesh shirts. Sometimes even It girls needs to dress like grown-ups. If not quite the wow that the duo's winning Spring collection was, tonight's outing was still a smart, satisfying sequel.