Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, February 17, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Not that anyone doubted that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough were New York fashion's cool kids, but for confirmation, you had only to glance at their front row tonight. Crammed in tight were Nicole Richie, Chloë Sevigny, Selma Blair, and Mary-Kate Olsen, more than one of whom came with her own bodyguard. Those starlets—and their social-set seatmates—are the target audience for the duo's energetic Fall collection, which had the edgy naïveté and sexy legginess that have lately become Proenza Schouler signatures.The designers started off with a toggle jacket cropped below the breasts in a manner reminiscent of the silhouettes in their very first runway show. It was paired with high-waisted skinny jeans in a graffiti print made in collaboration with the denim label J Brand. (Just try keeping those on shelves.) The model carried their new P.S. 11 bag, a more structured take on the P.S. 1, and forged ahead on wooden-platform, stacked-heel shoes.
The scribble motif wasn't the collection's only eye-grabbing pattern. To create the woven jacquards they used for their baby-doll minidresses (worn, like almost everything in the show, with thigh-high hose), Hernandez and McCollough took photocopies of plaids, jiggling the fabrics on the copier's plate glass to create their blurred, distorted effects. Other prep-school standbys got seriously tweaked as well. Varsity jackets came with purple or green fur collars, while a snappy cheerleader skirt was teamed with a luxe black fox sweatshirt.
Relatively subdued and spare by comparison were a pair of accordion-pleated flannel minidresses in navy and pine green that were layered over black mesh shirts. Sometimes even It girls needs to dress like grown-ups. If not quite the wow that the duo's winning Spring collection was, tonight's outing was still a smart, satisfying sequel.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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