Emilio Pucci
MILAN, February 27, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
High bohemia and opium-smoking dens. Peter Dundas has taken Pucci to a darker, more dangerous place in his third season at the label, and it looks fabulous. "I wanted to do something that felt lush," he said. Indeed. From start to finish, the collection played like a sexy antidote to fashion's resurgent minimalism. You could almost hear the sigh of relief from the fearless red-carpet types and party girls for whom the less-is-less trend holds zero allure.To open, Dundas showed a long jersey dress in an archival house print called Capri, only he had dip-dyed it deep purple and made the back scandalously low. Fringed scarf dresses, along with a feather chubby in acid green, added to the glam-hippie seventies vibe. Just plain glam, meanwhile, were the leggy minidresses—in black, say, with a peekaboo gold lace panel on the front—or the gowns with plunging necklines and high-drama slits and trailing hems.
None of that is exactly uncharted territory for Dundas, who's recently been discovered by the Kate Hudsons and Fergies of the world. What felt new was his tailoring. He cut jackets with strong, clean lines: They came elongated and double-breasted or cropped bolero-short, and were worn with scarves wrapped around the neck and knockout high-waisted suede flares. The woman who dons the bloodred matte crocodile aviator jacket and matching suede pants won't soon be forgotten. The celebrity stylists will be clamoring already.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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