Gareth Pugh
PARIS, March 3, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Gareth Pugh's emblematic chevron is also one of the symbols of Art Deco, and the glamour of the Deco years in Hollywood was one of the sub-currents in the designer's latest collection. That meant he continued to move away from the hard alien edge that was once his signature in favor of a more sinuous line. Karlie Kloss in an obi-belted cashmere wool coat with matching flared pants? Nouvelle Dietrich! Likewise the full-length fishtailed gown in chevrons of chiffon and leather, with a capelet draped over the shoulders. Twenty-first-century Adrian!Pugh led with suits of solid-looking neoprene-backed leathers. He said he wanted his women to look strong, but they looked stiff in light of what was to come. He went up a gear with a coat-dress and pants in a samurailike glazed basket weave, a glamorous cape coat with frayed edges, and an asymmetrical crocheted coat over leggings. They had the drama that the designer's fans expect, but they were an evolution of the softer, more romantic mood he initiated for Spring. His key silhouette—an A-line cut on the square, falling away to points, with a natural shoulder—was all about movement. He emphasized that further with a group of pieces draped in fine chains, which slithered like flapper dresses. Pugh accessorized the collection with men in outfits that were designed to emphasize masculine vulnerability in the face of feminine strength. Hence, pleated palazzo pants for the guy in your life.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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