March 02, 2010 Paris
Pugh led with suits of solid-looking neoprene-backed leathers. He said he wanted his women to look strong, but they looked stiff in light of what was to come. He went up a gear with a coat-dress and pants in a samurailike glazed basket weave, a glamorous cape coat with frayed edges, and an asymmetrical crocheted coat over leggings. They had the drama that the designer's fans expect, but they were an evolution of the softer, more romantic mood he initiated for Spring. His key silhouette—an A-line cut on the square, falling away to points, with a natural shoulder—was all about movement. He emphasized that further with a group of pieces draped in fine chains, which slithered like flapper dresses. Pugh accessorized the collection with men in outfits that were designed to emphasize masculine vulnerability in the face of feminine strength. Hence, pleated palazzo pants for the guy in your life.