Rad Hourani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
One of the principal complaints about young designers is that they lack a unique point of view and, particularly when you're facing a packed fashion schedule, a reason to exist. That's not an issue with Canadian designer Rad Hourani, who launched his label three years ago with a laserlike focus. His is a modern goth ethos that fetishizes a strict, lean black silhouette with straight skinny pants and rectangular jackets. The designer is specific. His clothes are always unisex and symmetrical, and you'll never see a button chez Hourani, only zippers.Because of this unmistakable signature, which owes a debt to Rick Owens and Helmut Lang, watching Hourani's show is all about the subtle evolutions. "It's always a continuation from the last season," he said backstage. "I never start a new inspiration board." Today's collection, rendered solely in black and an almost-black navy, focused on transformation and layering: The precise cuts and clean lines on these pieces made it hard to see where one started and the other ended. Still, the look was luxuriously bundled in leather, thick ribbed knits, and, new this season, black sequins, patent leather, and neoprene.
Much of the collection was riddled with zippers, furthering the transformative experiment Hourani started last season: zip on, zip off, turn a jacket into a vest or replace a leather sleeve with wool. Apparently, there was a single jacket on the runway worn ten different ways. Hourani has interesting ideas, which by all appearances are well executed, and lofty goals. He's caught the eye of the important fashion crowd. Soon, this newcomer may well leapfrog beyond his cult status.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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