February 16, 2010 New York
You could see references to Bonnie Cashin, who designed clothes for Coach in the sixties, in the leather-edged outerwear; to Joseph Beuys in the felt coats; and to Krakoff's passion for industrial design in the gunmetal hardware and the different shades of gray he used. Creating a design vocabulary from absolute zero, though, is not without its challenges, and with its military-meets-minimal look, something in the mood of the show echoed Phoebe Philo's influential Spring collection for Celine. That quibble aside, there was lots to like. On the way out, everyone was whispering approvingly of the long midnight blue coat that topped a gray cardigan and extra-wide ivory moleskin pants. But Krakoff's chunky knits also deserve shout-outs, and so do a pair of shearling jackets. Those had a swagger the designer can build on next time.