Roland Mouret
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2010
By Sarah Mower
For a designer who first caused a stir with sizzling, form-enhancing dresses, this season's talk about the need for rational daywear must be concerning and possibly confusing. Roland Mouret, who's been working on adding coats and knitwear to his repertoire for a while, seemed to allow it to back him into an oddly gloomy corner for Fall. This time, he turned his career-long technique of cutting and wrapping fabric on the square into constructs involving draped and hoicked-up shapes manipulated into hooded outerwear in tweedy, grayish, muted off-colors. That wasn't all he had, but it set the show off on a drabber note than usual.Experimenting with broadening one's scope is not in itself at all wrong, of course. In his studio in London, Mouret has devoted much thought and research to developing a wardrobe of multipurpose, transformable pieces—his tunic-top dress, and the thing he calls a "carré," which can be worn as either a top or a skirt, suspended from ribbon tapes. Alongside that, he's come up with patterned twinsets—a short sweater and longer cardigan, in this show—and narrow pants, in velvet. At times though, the complicated draping around the middle section of skirts, and the pulled-up back view on a shirtdress canceled out Mouret's main go-to attraction. Flattery through simplicity is what he does best, and those overelaborate items were a red flag for anyone concerned with wearability.
Still, Mouret's talent for modern evening glamour was present and correct in more than one way this week in Paris. His long, dusty pink dress with a black ribbon tied in the small of a bared back had the kind of quietly sexy sophistication his customers gravitate toward. One of them happens to be Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. This week, she wore Mouret's long-sleeved, covered-up jade evening gown with a slit skirt to a state dinner at the Elysée Palace. It had that combination of simplicity, propriety, and, yes, form-enhancing sizzle all women clock from a mile off. Once Mouret refocuses more on that, he'll be back on track.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
F
Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
