Richard Nicoll
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Sarah Mower
"OK. Let's stop the blah-blah! Just give us something to wear! This looked effortless. Job done. Great." Thus the chic Paris retailer Maria Luisa Poumaillou expressed the elation of the grown-up women leaving Richard Nicoll's show. The excitement: soft tailoring and modern separates carried off with a sustained aura of conviction and confidence. Nicoll's wrapped blazers, long skirts, oversize cashmere sweaters, and draped silk velvet came as a timely, well-judged reading of what women have been missing lately—the part of fashion that slipped into oblivion when short, tight dresses took over. Obviously, it took Phoebe Philo to shift the agenda on that, but Nicoll has always had an executive woman somewhere in his repertoire. In seasons past, to be honest, she's been prone to making pop-up appearances and then disappearing as if embarrassed, but this time, she's fully out, and no apologies.In this second wave of the emancipation of the working woman (who'd have thought we'd still have to talk about that in the twenty-first century?), it's not good enough to fall back on retro clichés like pseudo-power suits. What Nicoll is contributing is a new language of work-relevant daywear unencumbered by tiresome and limiting fashion-y references. His solutions are centered on one-color dressing (taupe, rust, a beautiful Air Force blue), choice rather than uniform (he has pants, as well as long and short lengths), and a body-skimming fit (satin T-shirts, cashmere tunics). Easy. And yet so hard to do.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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