Cactus Flower. If this one hasn't made your Netflix queue, it's time to add it. Marco Zanini based his third collection for Rochas on the half-forgotten 1969 romantic comedy starring Goldie Hawn and Ingrid Bergman, an odd couple if ever there was one. "It's a smiley collection, joyful," he said beforehand. "I did a lot of playing with materials and colors that are weird together." He wasn't wrong there; this was as zany and retro as anything we've seen for Fall. The through line with his more sedate Spring outing: color. Zanini has a fearless way of taking, say, a slate blue jacket festooned with a navy ribbon bow on the hip pocket and mixing it with a turquoise skirt, a yellow lamé blouse, wine-colored gloves, and gold-piped blush satin pumps.
His color sense wasn't the only thing daring about this collection, which was simple in its lines but definitely not minimal. There were the models' big, teased 'dos, chalky coral lips, and trippy heels, but most of all there was the show's unapologetically late-sixties/early-seventies vibe. It came through in the metallic brocade tunic with matching kick flares and in the exaggerated pointy collar of a silk blouse worn with a pinafore shift. Although the fabrics back in the day probably didn't feel quite so deluxe as Zanini's will, there was little else to distinguish those pieces from vintage. Intriguing, certainly, but potentially a tough sell.
The good news is that there were plenty of other things here to charm the woman who appreciates Zanini's way with little details: Take the ribbed camel cardigan with the gold leather button placket and elbow patches, or another sweater in gray with the label intarsia-ed below the collar in the back. There were also smart-looking coats, one in cheetah-spotted ponyskin and another in the season's de rigueur camel. That brought a smile to your face, and not an ironic one.
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