Rochas
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Cactus Flower. If this one hasn't made your Netflix queue, it's time to add it. Marco Zanini based his third collection for Rochas on the half-forgotten 1969 romantic comedy starring Goldie Hawn and Ingrid Bergman, an odd couple if ever there was one. "It's a smiley collection, joyful," he said beforehand. "I did a lot of playing with materials and colors that are weird together." He wasn't wrong there; this was as zany and retro as anything we've seen for Fall. The through line with his more sedate Spring outing: color. Zanini has a fearless way of taking, say, a slate blue jacket festooned with a navy ribbon bow on the hip pocket and mixing it with a turquoise skirt, a yellow lamé blouse, wine-colored gloves, and gold-piped blush satin pumps.His color sense wasn't the only thing daring about this collection, which was simple in its lines but definitely not minimal. There were the models' big, teased 'dos, chalky coral lips, and trippy heels, but most of all there was the show's unapologetically late-sixties/early-seventies vibe. It came through in the metallic brocade tunic with matching kick flares and in the exaggerated pointy collar of a silk blouse worn with a pinafore shift. Although the fabrics back in the day probably didn't feel quite so deluxe as Zanini's will, there was little else to distinguish those pieces from vintage. Intriguing, certainly, but potentially a tough sell.
The good news is that there were plenty of other things here to charm the woman who appreciates Zanini's way with little details: Take the ribbed camel cardigan with the gold leather button placket and elbow patches, or another sweater in gray with the label intarsia-ed below the collar in the back. There were also smart-looking coats, one in cheetah-spotted ponyskin and another in the season's de rigueur camel. That brought a smile to your face, and not an ironic one.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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