Rick Owens
PARIS, March 4, 2010
By Sarah Mower
With their swept-back hair and swept-up eye makeup, Rick Owens' infeasibly attenuated tribe of women were an uncompromising vision of female power. Who were they, with their long, zigzag-patterned legs; asymmetric warrior wraps; bared arms; and intense hip-accentuated forward gait? "A sect of nuns," he said. "Glamorous nuns, with inner discipline."That's Owens on a concept level, the one he believes in as a way of life, rather than a passing seasonal whim. The amazing thing, though, is that what might read as an insider tract, intelligible only to the initiated, is actually a wide-open book for a far broader fashion church. Look more closely, and Owens' way of showing is really a methodical demonstration of a jacket collection that comes in so many permutations that it can appeal to hard-core goths, working urbanites of all ages, and women with plenty of money to lavish on fur. As an outerwear specialist, he has an answer to puffers (down-filled wraps), biker jackets (slick to the ribs, and zippered up one side), hoodies (conceptual versions with geometric horn appliqués), and fur vests (kangaroo at the less expensive end, full-length mink at the ultra).
Beneath all this there were dippy, asymmetrical jersey skirts bunched into layered folds in front and a well-thought-out display of accessories: gloves encircled with fur tufts, wedge boots (most directionally in tan leather), and, on each look, those zigzag tights-cum-leggings. Ignore the apparent weirdness of Owens' point of view, and this could be seen as another of fashion's methodically commercial one-look collections, strategized to spotlight the house top-sellers as well as the best of them.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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