For Fall, Rachel Roy built right on top of her pre-fall range, seen just over a month ago. While that collection took Moroccan military gear as inspiration, this time the designer wanted her fictional muse to embrace opulence in the same North African setting. But don't cue the Cleopatra headdresses just yet, although there was certainly plenty of bright sparkle and shine here, from a fully crocheted gold dress and jacket early on, straight through to the finale: a silver column gown crusted all over with pearls.

What was most interesting here were Roy's attempts at balance, which she views as her ongoing struggle, both personally and professionally. Here she played it out in a teeter-totter between masculine and feminine, sending out languid, almost athletic suits to counter party dresses with gathered waists. That search for balance seemed to bleed into her silhouettes, which have often been criticized for trying to do too much but were newly streamlined and sophisticated. You could see that perfectly in an evening look that Roy described as an Oscar dress for someone who wasn't nominated: a silvery black cable turtleneck paired with a long floral jacquard skirt. It's a look that would immediately make a woman the most confident, coolest, and chicest in the room, or on the red carpet.