Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
In the three years of Rue du Mail's existence, Martine Sitbon has made the label a go-to source for a dress that's keyed into the trends without being desperate about it. Tailoring hasn't necessarily been her thing, but it would've been impossible for her to miss fashion's move toward more structured silhouettes; so, keeping current, she added some to her Fall lineup tonight.Belted high on the waist, a man's oversize jacket in a shiny/matte shade of brown became a dress. Bermuda shorts, which have been popping up with regularity elsewhere, appeared here in satin for evening, or in a more traditional suiting fabric with a paper-bag waist and paired with a fitted jacket for day. Trenches received a fair bit of Sitbon's attention—she played with tucks and folds around the shoulders on one, and spliced another in half on the front. There were also a few interesting quilted jackets in the mix; with their puffy, shawl-like lapels, they almost looked like puffers.
As timely as most of that was, Sitbon's heart belongs to frocks. They came in fitted and ruched knits and a bell-shaped sleeveless velvet, and there was a lot of novelty in a group made from swagged silk threads, especially the narrow gold number. The smart investment this season? That would be the slender coat-dress. Everybody's got a version on their runway, but Rue du Mail's—with its one draped and fringed lapel—is more sexy than boxy, guaranteeing higher returns.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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