In the three years of Rue du Mail's existence, Martine Sitbon has made the label a go-to source for a dress that's keyed into the trends without being desperate about it. Tailoring hasn't necessarily been her thing, but it would've been impossible for her to miss fashion's move toward more structured silhouettes; so, keeping current, she added some to her Fall lineup tonight.

Belted high on the waist, a man's oversize jacket in a shiny/matte shade of brown became a dress. Bermuda shorts, which have been popping up with regularity elsewhere, appeared here in satin for evening, or in a more traditional suiting fabric with a paper-bag waist and paired with a fitted jacket for day. Trenches received a fair bit of Sitbon's attention—she played with tucks and folds around the shoulders on one, and spliced another in half on the front. There were also a few interesting quilted jackets in the mix; with their puffy, shawl-like lapels, they almost looked like puffers.

As timely as most of that was, Sitbon's heart belongs to frocks. They came in fitted and ruched knits and a bell-shaped sleeveless velvet, and there was a lot of novelty in a group made from swagged silk threads, especially the narrow gold number. The smart investment this season? That would be the slender coat-dress. Everybody's got a version on their runway, but Rue du Mail's—with its one draped and fringed lapel—is more sexy than boxy, guaranteeing higher returns.