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Ruffian

NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Space is the place for Ruffian this season. Antique constellation prints and images of Orion taken by the Hubble telescope decorated the designers' silk blouses, and skirtsuits with trim, cropped jackets and flaring, to-the-knee skirts were cut in silvery bouclé inspired by Vincent van Gogh's masterpiece The Starry Night. These, along with a strong lineup of outerwear—a pair of elegant, narrow capes with curving armholes and a perky navy peacoat with a leather collar and belt were standouts—will please the tony, upper-crust part of Brian Wolk and Claude Morais' clientele.

Lately, though, having befriended Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone (the latter of whom is hosting a big after-party for them at the Box), the duo has been running with a clubby crowd. So there was something of a disco eighties vibe to stretch jersey dresses inset with sequins of crescent moons and mohair sweatshirts worn with high-waisted, shimmery silk moiré leggings.

It made for a bit of a mixed message, but in this case, that's not necessarily a criticism. A little something for the ladies who lunch, and some more for the ladies who party-hop, just might be the smartest way to build the Ruffian brand.

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