Ruffian
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Space is the place for Ruffian this season. Antique constellation prints and images of Orion taken by the Hubble telescope decorated the designers' silk blouses, and skirtsuits with trim, cropped jackets and flaring, to-the-knee skirts were cut in silvery bouclé inspired by Vincent van Gogh's masterpiece The Starry Night. These, along with a strong lineup of outerwear—a pair of elegant, narrow capes with curving armholes and a perky navy peacoat with a leather collar and belt were standouts—will please the tony, upper-crust part of Brian Wolk and Claude Morais' clientele.Lately, though, having befriended Marc Jacobs and Lorenzo Martone (the latter of whom is hosting a big after-party for them at the Box), the duo has been running with a clubby crowd. So there was something of a disco eighties vibe to stretch jersey dresses inset with sequins of crescent moons and mohair sweatshirts worn with high-waisted, shimmery silk moiré leggings.
It made for a bit of a mixed message, but in this case, that's not necessarily a criticism. A little something for the ladies who lunch, and some more for the ladies who party-hop, just might be the smartest way to build the Ruffian brand.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




















