Sacai
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 4, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Everything is not what it seems at Sacai. What looks like a Rue Cambon skirtsuit reveals itself upon closer inspection to be a tweedy sleeveless vest topping a blouse with the same tweedy sleeves. (Designer Chitose Abe's mannequin presentation makes it possible to spot the difference.) The skirt, by the way, appears to have shirttails peeking out between the pleats, but that's another optical illusion. Meanwhile, the back of a deceptively simple cable-knit sweater dress is actually a cotton poplin shirt spliced to a flaring wool miniskirt. If all that sounds like heavy-handed gimmickry, it's not. Sacai's way of tweaking classics, splicing the masculine with the feminine, and dissecting and reconstructing familiar items is utterly charming. What makes it smart and gives the label's clothes a point of difference on the sales floor is the way, say, the white pearl-embroidered slip underneath a charcoal knit blazer is detachable. That provides the woman who wears it more than two looks in one—the lacy little extra can potentially be worn under countless other pieces already in her wardrobe.Joining those multitaskers in Abe's strong lineup were substantial Fair Isle knits, draped silk scarf dresses, and schoolboy-ish toggle coats with girlish flared sleeves, along with some clever gloves trimmed at the wrist with pearls, silver chain, and a spray of tulle. Who needs jewelry?
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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