Sophia Kokosalaki captured something of the late eighties' dressed-up elegance at the opening of her Fall show: a softened version of that beige-to-caramel phase of glamorously drapey yet assertive tailoring that filtered into womenswear under the influence of the likes of Claude Montana. "I was thinking of the clothes my mother used to wear when I was growing up," she said, "and about the natural forms you see in the Greek landscape."

It added a personalized slant to the power-woman redux theme that's been building through Fall. Kokosalaki worked on reviving blouses, high-waisted pants, and suede cummerbund belts for her generation. Now in their thirties, her peers have moved past cramming themselves into biker jackets, jeans, and body-con dresses to wondering how to put themselves together as adults. As always in Kokosalaki's work, the ideas were filtered through her Greek identity. This time, her career-long obsession with draping produced layered, flyaway jersey dresses and a gauzy, subtle beige interpretation of her signature goddess dress—more examples of the kind of eveningwear that gives her fans an un-showy but confident way to walk into an event. Kokosalaki is never a chichi designer, and the nature influence in this collection wasn't a lushly romantic one. Perhaps the look of the shoes—a metal heel that resembled a parched husk of something organic, and the metallic embroideries on black—were an unconscious abstraction of the debris left by the forest fires that have plagued her home country. Either way, there was a quiet strength in this collection that maintains Kokosalaki's position as an independent voice.