Sophie Theallet
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
Today was Sophie Théallet's first show since winning the big CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund purse. Ever the prudent design veteran, she explained a week ago in her Brooklyn studio, "I make wise choices. It's not going to change tomorrow." What is wise, of course, is funneling some of that cash into luxe fabrics and new categories. That's what Théallet did today in a collection that was appropriately inspired by fairy tales and recapturing the magic in fashion.There was a continuation of the bohemian gypsy trip she started last Fall, though now it was laced with a seventies-era louche-ness. Those gorgeously gathered dirndl dresses—some in a delicate French floral cotton that is apparently très cher—were finished with mussed hair and slouchy, tasseled suede boots.
Théallet has always been dress-focused, and still is: This wasn't exactly a collection to ward off the wintry mix. But there was also her first round of lovely knitwear, lightly pointelled and ribbed, which sweetly coordinated with the berries and blues of her frocks. Warmer still were belted shearlings that threw off some of their rustic connotations with the chic flare of a peplum back. It's details like this that highlight Théallet's chops and put her ahead of the pack, as does the fine-tuning of creating an off-the-shoulder charmeuse dress that falls just so. "It's the simplest things that are the hardest," she said. But sometimes it's also the tall orders. One of the few problematic looks—a satin gown with bows trussing up its waist and sleeves—was part of a series of dresses based on a story where a girl asks for dresses the color of the moon and the sky.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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