Central Saint Martins
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Sarah Mower
Once a year, the graduation show of Central Saint Martins' M.A. course gives not just a sighting of new talent but, increasingly, a strong fashion direction of its own. The class of 2010, to judge from the 22 collections on Professor Louise Wilson's runway, is over the short, tight, sexy, glittery, printed things their elders are still turning out. This cohort likes geometry, flat planes of matte fabric, and pleating. They sculpt 3-D shapes in tailoring and jersey, knit raffia into amazing volumes, and push silhouettes to new attenuated-ly elegant proportions.Is this a uniquely London thing? Only in its precociously professional standards of production and finish. (Professor Wilson demands no less.) In fact, the student body at this school is a truly international mix. Most of this year's graduates are Scandinavian, Asian, Russian, and American, with only a smattering of Brits. That's the nature of British fashion education now, and its energy feeds back into the vibrant multiracial culture that has been seeded in this city over the past few years. When they leave, these individuals will have internalized a sense of who they are and what it means to be original. Some will go on fully prepared to take up responsibilities in design teams around the world. Others, more likely, will want to stay in London, ready to compete with each other in a capital that, despite the recession, continues to encourage young designers to set up on their own.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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