What is minimalism? Backstage before her show, Sharon Wauchob said that was the question occupying her thoughts this season. More specifically, how does a designer who likes femininity and tactile things, as she does, go about doing minimal? Her approach was to consider cut—not the silhouette, although that was edgily spare and clean, but the process of literally slicing her fabrics and sometimes reweaving the excised material back into the clothes.

The singular focus of the collection made for a somewhat repetitive runway viewing experience—but it still produced some desirable pieces, like the asymmetrically draped black leather dresses with hand-cut fringes that opened the proceedings; the jewel-tone dip-dyed and spliced chiffon dresses that closed them; and, more tangentially, a gold bead and leather mesh tunic. The softness of these looks was balanced by strong wool coats trimmed in fur or croc-stamped leather.

Wauchob's ability to suss out the trends and synthesize them in a sexy, not overly intellectual way will come in handy at her new gig as creative director of Edun, the socially conscious design label launched by Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson. The latter looked pleased as she took everything in from the front row.