Sharon Wauchob
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 4, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
What is minimalism? Backstage before her show, Sharon Wauchob said that was the question occupying her thoughts this season. More specifically, how does a designer who likes femininity and tactile things, as she does, go about doing minimal? Her approach was to consider cut—not the silhouette, although that was edgily spare and clean, but the process of literally slicing her fabrics and sometimes reweaving the excised material back into the clothes.The singular focus of the collection made for a somewhat repetitive runway viewing experience—but it still produced some desirable pieces, like the asymmetrically draped black leather dresses with hand-cut fringes that opened the proceedings; the jewel-tone dip-dyed and spliced chiffon dresses that closed them; and, more tangentially, a gold bead and leather mesh tunic. The softness of these looks was balanced by strong wool coats trimmed in fur or croc-stamped leather.
Wauchob's ability to suss out the trends and synthesize them in a sexy, not overly intellectual way will come in handy at her new gig as creative director of Edun, the socially conscious design label launched by Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson. The latter looked pleased as she took everything in from the front row.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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