Joanna Sykes is mesmerized by math. "It's all about the triangle," she insisted, pointing to the construction of her new collection, which was shaped by the geometries of Islamic textiles. There may indeed have been a good deal of craft involved in their creation, but in reality there was nothing so esoteric in the clothes themselves, which made a feature of bold proportions and exceptionally tactile fabrics, like the wool alpaca with a ponyskin feel. Sykes cut it into sexy little shorts, shown under a black jacket in leather so fine it felt like lambskin. Those same shorts would probably look good under the parka in a camel wool cashmere.

Sykes used black tape for drawstrings, a striking touch. Her draped dresses—cool in lilac, hot in orange—had a twenties feel which, with the mathematical undertow, brought Vionnet to mind. It's not such a bad echo for a designer on the rise. As before, Sykes showed her clothes on different generations of women. Daphne, aged 81, wore a black suede biker jacket very well.