Threeasfour
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2010
By Meenal Mistry
If you haven't attended a Threeasfour show in a few seasons, it's easy to forget how brainy and beautiful their art project-cum-fashion productions can be. "Alchemy," Gabi Asfour said pithily backstage before the show, when asked about inspiration.As the lights went down, green lasers shot across the floor and the models filed out, placing themselves around the bronze, gold, and silver alchemical star painted in the center of the runway. As each left the circle, took a turn on the catwalk, and returned, the group steadily orbited, offering showgoers a chance to examine each look.
Certainly these merited a moment of observation. The collection tracked the seven metals of alchemy, which in sartorial form meant going from black (lead) through a variety of metallics and ending, of course, in gold. The first two in black—a dramatically collared wool and leather coat, and a leather jacket with a curved zip, paired with leather pants—were the most readily commercial.
From there, nearly every look started with spandex tights or a unitard inset with curving panels of mesh. One was topped with a dark, tubelike rope twisted flat against the body in brain-matter-shaped curlicues; another, with a sculpted braided rope the color of a new penny. There was also a blue metallic leather dress with a flared skirt; a cutout top that asymmetrically traced the body's structure; and a black silk top that seemed to be blooming bright silver bugle beads like mold. The culmination was a gold jacket and pants, not unlike the earlier leather version.
It was a terrific vision, even if its retail-ready charms weren't immediately apparent. Still, Asfour and his fellow designers, Angela Donhauser and Adi Gil, have a modern form of communication in their sights that could help with that: a Web site where they can sell everything from accessories and T-shirts to their more elaborate couture and, of course, whatever else this trio dreams up.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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