Tess Giberson
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
After putting her signature line on hold in 2005 to take a position at TSE, where she remained until 2008, Tess Giberson is back on the fashion calendar. That should please arty, intellectual dressers who in the interim might've turned to kindred spirits like Maria Cornejo or A Détacher's Mona Kowalska. Giberson's comeback collection, which she showed on mannequins and in large-scale photographs at a Chelsea gallery, is titled Superimpose. Her idea, as she explained it, was to break apart the pieces of familiar items and rearrange them. A peplum jacket was patchworked together from thickly textured wool, men's suiting fabric, and felt, while another blazer had tulle panels on the arm. A hand-knit torso and sleeves were spliced onto a fine-gauge sweater worn above a miniskirt with its own knit details, and a dress with an asymmetric neckline was sand-washed silk in front and sportier mesh in back. The show worked because it never felt experimental for experimentalism's sake. Everything was eminently wearable.After so long an absence, and with such an overcrowded schedule this week, it may be tough for this designer to get noticed. But the girls who've worn Giberson in the past will tell you hers are the kind of clothes that always get a second look.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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