Feral. It's not the first word that comes to mind regarding Thakoon Panichgul and his work, but it's an apt one for his Fall collection. First, there were the furs: fox, mink, and raccoon patchworked into a savagely cool jacket, a Mongolian lamb gilet with shoulder-extending proportions, and disembodied hoods. As for his always popular draped print dresses, this time they came in an enlarged and fuzzed-out tiger pattern (the hem of one was even trimmed in multicolored fur to match) or a leopard burnout velvet.

So, is Panichgul over being New York's resident romantic? There was a fairy-tale-like quality to his color palette as it shaded from somber grays and blacks through goldenrod to ivory. But, yes, there was something new about the slightly sinister feel of a Big Bad Wolf blouson jacket in fox and a cable matelassé cape, even if in the end a stretch wool dress densely embroidered with ruffled flowers won the day. Panichgul's experiments with texture pushed him in a new direction. If they didn't always work—pompom embroideries were a bit too cutesy; a peacoat lined in fox, too bulky—it was a small thrill to see him explore new territory.