Amy Smilovic knew change was in the wind this season. "I was in Palm Beach over the holidays, and everyone was wearing leather and studs," the Tibi designer explained, laughing, backstage. "And if the look has made it there, you know it's time to do something new."

Fall at Tibi focused less on established trends and more on the relatively straightforward concept of balanced opposites. Cropped tweed trousers came with a drapey bow tie; a glam bustier was layered over a sheer long-sleeve tee; and winter shorts were cut in fur and paired with a little jacket covered in paillettes. A study in contrasts isn't exactly a new proposition, but the clear-cut theme worked as a unifying thread. With 42 looks all told, nothing appeared repetitive, and that's a credit to Smilovic's range.