February 20, 2010 London
You'll notice that, in both instances, the emphasis was on the shoulder. Lynn went for a pagoda silhouette in his more "low-key" pieces, like the wool jacket with linebacker leather inserts, or the gray jersey jacket that also featured built-out leather shoulders. The combination of cloth and skin was a step forward in a softening of Lynn's usual hyper-tailored aesthetic. Another significant advance with this collection was the overall use of leather, braided into strikingly dramatic outerwear. Climate change or not, Lynn continues to cover a narrow waterfront, but he's mastered a balance between provocation and desirability. And, although they were separated in today's front row by his old boss Roland Mouret, we have him to thank for London fashion week's oddest (semi-)couple: Janet Jackson and Soft Cell's Marc Almond. Imagine the sweet but strange music they'd make together.