Trussardi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 27, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
As a design MO it's hard to go wrong surrounding yourself with fashionable girlfriends and making them what they want. Lately, Milan Vukmirovic's pals have been moving away from the rock 'n' roll aesthetic that influenced his Spring lineup for Trussardi 1911 and looking more toward Paris in the seventies for inspiration. Think Jane Birkin or Romy Schneider in fitted flares with a short, slightly military-influenced coat over a feminine silk blouse.Updates on these classics have been appearing on lots of other runways this season, but women looking for a new, unexpected resource could do worse than hitting up this recently resuscitated nearly 100-year-old Italian brand. Vukmirovic worked his slim silhouette in a multitude of want-able fabrics: oversize houndstooth (he uses the French term pied-de-poule, which translates to "chicken feet"), Lurex-shot bouclé, ladylike double-face cashmere in heathery shades of camel and gray, and edgier leather-coated tweed. Some of the bags have a bit too much Chanel and Hermès in them, but the designer has other temptations in store, mostly in the form of statement-making outerwear. A horizontally pleated and ruched black leather jacket, a sheepskin coat-dress with an undulating zipper that opens and closes from both the top and bottom, and a collarless A-line jacket in lamb fur dyed a subtly chic shade of café au lait—those all have serious It potential.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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