Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 6, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Jun Takahashi hasn't put on a proper sit-down fashion show in three seasons. Being away from the big stage that long has gotten him thinking about the perversity of creating two separate collections, an editorial one for the runway and a more sales-friendly one for the showroom, so this season he decided to do just the latter. The clothes he's made for Fall are firmly rooted to real life—so firmly, in fact, he hired his wife, Riko, to model them in front of projections of everyday scenarios like the grocery store, the street corner, etc.Takahashi wears a leather watch printed with the words "Less but better," and that continues to be his mantra. Coats, for example, are made from as few separate pieces of fabric as possible, while jackets are reversible, with fleece, that everyman fabric, on one side and silk on the other. He hasn't abandoned luxury entirely: Another jacket that looks like fleece is in fact sheared sheepskin, and his olive-drab fatigue shirt comes in washed silk. Still, the wittiest elements of the collection poke not so subtle fun at the trappings of wealth: a Globe-Trotter trolley suitcase whipped up in nylon, a Birkin made from colorful, outdoorsy backpack material.
It can seem a bit disingenuous, or at the least like he's jeopardizing his own livelihood, when a designer starts preaching an antimaterialist message as Takahashi has—his nylon eco bags read, "Not buy unnecessary things." In this case, though, there's a certain logic at work. With his focus on T-shirts, jeans, and sporty outerwear, the Undercover operator is simply pushing this season's emphasis on practical chic to the limit.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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