Topshop Unique
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 20, 2010
By Tim Blanks
By the time soundtrack supremo John Gosling blasted the room with Bow Wow Wow's "Go Wild in the Country," we'd already gone there. The presentation for Topshop's Unique collection was a sensationally feral romp through the great outdoors. Opening with the relative primness of a boy-scout uniform cut into a tiny little khaki jacket and matching short shorts (covered with badges), it careened at record speed through distressed leather parkas lined with shaggy shearling; the longest, most languid knitwear with wolves and owls tangled in the complex patterns; and wood-nymph-worthy chiffons printed with mushrooms. There was so much wit and ingenuity in the clothes that you felt mushrooms might even have been involved in the creative process. Take the lustrous fake fur that looked better than the most ludicrously deluxe mink coat. (And if you don't take it, there will be thousands who do, come next winter.) Or the sexy take on functional old oilcloth, cut here into a fitted jacket with a swooping flare in back.The reconfiguration of country classics produced a chic shearling-lined duffel, a herringbone jacket harnessed to the body, and farmer's daughter's dresses in jersey, hotted up with strips of leather binding for a corseting effect. One coat trailed a giant tangle of feral bits and bobs, like something from an Inuit shaman's tent. It was the kind of chaotic fashion piece that exerts a primal tug. And everything contributed to that mood at Unique: Emma Cook's animal masks/hats, Hannah Murray's brilliant wild-child eyebrows, Paul Hanlon's hedge-bush hair, and, most of all, Katie Grand's pull-it-all-together-then-tear-it-apart styling.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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