Vionnet
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
After a detour into daywear for his pre-collection, Rodolfo Paglialunga focused most of his attention for Fall on evening. It's a category he's had some success with in the short time he's been at Vionnet, dressing Carey Mulligan for her BAFTA Awards win less than two weeks ago, as well as other young starlets on the premiere circuit. From the pair of hand-painted lace dresses worn over colorful striped slips to a draped "three pink" silk cocktail number, the collection he showed at Jean Cocteau's Palais-Royal apartment today had a lot of red-carpet potential. But there were less glam, more intimate pleasures to be had as well, chief among them a cleverly constructed date dress made from a single piece of ruched velvet that snapped up the back for easy-on and even easier-off access. Equally effortless was a square of ivory silk embroidered horizontally with black ribbons. It takes a deft draper to pull off something so deceptively simple.Rounding out the evening looks were luxe belted gilets with built-in capes trimmed in fox and other coats in a bold painterly check with a lot of drama at the shoulders. Paglialunga also had a lacquered cable sweater with a novel shape. His day silhouettes were in keeping with the drift toward more structured shapes. This season, though, it was the event clothes that stood out—and that are starting to give the latest incarnation of this storied label an identity.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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