After a detour into daywear for his pre-collection, Rodolfo Paglialunga focused most of his attention for Fall on evening. It's a category he's had some success with in the short time he's been at Vionnet
, dressing Carey Mulligan for her BAFTA Awards win less than two weeks ago, as well as other young starlets on the premiere circuit. From the pair of hand-painted lace dresses worn over colorful striped slips to a draped "three pink" silk cocktail number, the collection he showed at Jean Cocteau's Palais-Royal apartment today had a lot of red-carpet potential. But there were less glam, more intimate pleasures to be had as well, chief among them a cleverly constructed date dress made from a single piece of ruched velvet that snapped up the back for easy-on and even easier-off access. Equally effortless was a square of ivory silk embroidered horizontally with black ribbons. It takes a deft draper to pull off something so deceptively simple.
Rounding out the evening looks were luxe belted gilets with built-in capes trimmed in fox and other coats in a bold painterly check with a lot of drama at the shoulders. Paglialunga also had a lacquered cable sweater with a novel shape. His day silhouettes were in keeping with the drift toward more structured shapes. This season, though, it was the event clothes that stood out—and that are starting to give the latest incarnation of this storied label an identity.