VPL
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 14, 2010
By Romney Leader
Is Victoria Bartlett picking up cues from Lady Gaga and, more recently, Ke$ha? The sheer volume of briefs-as-pants the designer turned out for Fall is a strong argument. Or it could just be seen as classic VPL (which stands for "visible panty lines," remember). Whatever the reason, underwear-as-outerwear was an even stronger than usual focus for Bartlett this season. In addition to her classic color-blocked underpinnings, she showed a patchwork bodysuit with cutouts, gold sequin bandeaus, and a flesh-toned spandex crop-top-and-biker-short combo. That's not to say the models were sent shivering down the runway. Most were swaddled in some kind of enviably cozy topper—a pressed faux-fur sweatshirt, say, or a metallic wool cardigan. "For me, it's always about things that are falling off, splitting apart, and being put back together," Bartlett said when interviewed in her studio the week before her show. Case in point: some sliced jersey dresses with slipping shoulder straps and open backs (too open, perhaps—it's tough for those of us without catwalker proportions to imagine wearing said numbers outside the house). Still, in a crowded fashion-week schedule, kudos to Bartlett for creating her own distinct look. And amid the variety of today's offerings, there was something for every girl—even us non-models and non-pop sensations—to slip into./
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo





























