Vivienne Tam loves a theme. Sometimes they can be a bit much, but this season her Chinese New Year animal motif was subtly and, at times, even beautifully executed. The Year of the Tiger is about to begin, but Tam had time for all the members of the Sheng xiao zodiac. Even the rat got his moment on the runway.

Out of deference to her menagerie, Tam steered clear of leather and used fabric to signify the volume and texture of fur. There was a lighthearted feeling to the entire collection, with laser-cut details adding levity to a creamy funnel-neck coat, and playful tights in all kinds of animal spots. A cashmere tee with fused charmeuse-satin appliqués, worn under an appealing sequined cardigan with a tulle overlay, was dressy but not stuffy; and comfortable tuxedo pants and a gorgeous gold and white striped blouse had plenty of chic party-time slouch. A strapless army green taffeta dress, wound round with a military belt and pinned with an origami rat, was another youthful take on eveningwear, and it worked.