Vivienne Westwood Red Label
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
After Anastase on day one and Todd Lynn earlier today, the third time made the trend with Vivienne Westwood's Red Label collection: London's Fall 2010 catwalk is Copenhagen-conscious. As in keenly aware of the impact of climate change. Without acknowledging global warming per se, Westwood was apocalyptically predicting a billion people left on earth by 2100. Her antidote to mass extermination? "Loyalty 2 Gaia," love and respect to Mother Earth. That's what the T-shirt said. Quite how the rest of the collection was supposed to inspire Gaia love remained a mystery. It did, however, serve as yet another reminder of how rich the Westwood legacy is, as it ran the gamut from a tribal blanket coat and a micro-mini suit in the designer's beloved tartan to a practically prim plaid skirt and puff-sleeved blouse that wouldn't have looked out of place in the sixties on the schoolteacher Westwood once was. (A strapless dress in a sequined leopard spot made me wonder if the designer was channeling the sexpots she remembered from that same era.)There aren't many other designers who could dress the Queen Mother and Pixie Geldof from the same collection. For the billions of women who aren't either of those individuals, standout items included some beautifully cut coats; some simple, chic shirtdresses, particularly an evening shift in midnight paillettes; and some sexy little suits, including one in purple with a heart-shaped lapel trimmed in pink. Inevitably, in a collection this broad, there were some real stinkers, but, with one model sharpening a long knife while she stalked the catwalk in a butcher's apron, it's best to stay schtum on those. Out of "Loyalty 2 Viv," of course.
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Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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D&G Davidelfin Dennis Basso Derek Lam Devi Kroell Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Erin Wasson x RVCA Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Generra Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paris 68 Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Salvatore Ferragamo Sharon Wauchob Shipley & Halmos Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Suno Sykes -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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