February 11, 2010 New York
Azrouël is also known for a certain brand of ease, which he brought to the tailoring. Lines were slim, but not strict. He kept the mix new by employing interesting details (like an embroidered pinstripe, or the sharp leather insets on jackets and pants) and by de-bulking silhouettes with trompe l'oeil layers.
As for the dresses, they were an extension of Azrouël's sleek thinking for Spring. A series of clean, architectural numbers played a coy game of peekaboo, with long sleeves and high necks in front and sexy cutout backs. A peplum sweater dress was an original approach to a sometimes hard-to-wear trend.
Still, as we're seeing elsewhere, it was the separates that stole the show. There was an endless array of chic and covetable pants, often pleated and carrot-shaped, that will no doubt be added to the growing list of staples—leather jackets, knits, accessories (including a new capsule collection of bags)—for which the expanding Azrouël customer base clamors.