Antonio Azzuolo
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 12, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Before launching his namesake collection, Antonio Azzuolo spent years at temples of luxury tailoring: Ralph Lauren's Black and Purple Labels on the one hand, Hermès and Kenzo on the other. He also happens to be the son of a tailor, so it's no surprise that Azzuolo knows how to cut an excellent jacket. He's wisely made it his signature. This season's iteration comes in navy or brilliant red, with a light pagoda shoulder, a double-breast, and collar or lapels trimmed in Persian lamb. Azzuolo's craft is worth every penny, and it costs more than a few. No wonder he's big in Japan, where such things are prized.There are strengths and weaknesses among the rest of his offerings. This season, he drew inspiration from the Séeberger brothers, the early street-style photographers who shot Deauville and other French resort towns in the 1930's. That accounts for a bit of the luxe, louche chic (and maybe also the free hand with white fox). Wild bursts of color, as on the trompe l'oeil knits, on the other hand, are a more contemporary touch.
Azzuolo is fond of elegance and glamour, but there are times when he shades into the precious. Jackets cut from bouclé and Linton tweed—a fabric prized by Coco Chanel—felt like a bit too much. But sportier pieces, like the technical-wool anoraks the designer calls popovers, helped to ground some of the flightier flights of fancy.
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2011 Menswear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexis Mabille Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
B
Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Canali Christophe Lemaire Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
D
D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown Dunhill -
E
E. Tautz Edun Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
G
Gant by Michael Bastian Gap Gianfranco Ferré Gilded Age Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
I
Iceberg Issey Miyake -
J
J.Crew James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
L
Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Men Marni Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moncler Grenoble Moschino Mugler -
N
N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
P
Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
R
RAD by Rad Hourani Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Mr. -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
T
T by Alexander Wang Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
U
Umit Benan -
V
Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
W
Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Z Zegna
ERROR:
