February 11, 2011 New York
There are strengths and weaknesses among the rest of his offerings. This season, he drew inspiration from the Séeberger brothers, the early street-style photographers who shot Deauville and other French resort towns in the 1930's. That accounts for a bit of the luxe, louche chic (and maybe also the free hand with white fox). Wild bursts of color, as on the trompe l'oeil knits, on the other hand, are a more contemporary touch.
Azzuolo is fond of elegance and glamour, but there are times when he shades into the precious. Jackets cut from bouclé and Linton tweed—a fabric prized by Coco Chanel—felt like a bit too much. But sportier pieces, like the technical-wool anoraks the designer calls popovers, helped to ground some of the flightier flights of fancy.